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Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life. Unterstützte Lesegerätegruppen: PC/MAC/eReader/Tablet

Language EnglishEnglish
E-book Adobe ePub DRM
Publishers Corsair, August 2015
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction,... Full description
? points 8 b
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Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf, and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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About the book

Full name Barbarian Days
Language English
Binding E-book - Adobe ePub DRM
Date of issue 2015
EAN 9781472151407
Libristo code 02899384
Publishers Corsair
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